John’s doublecut…

Work has started on a new commision - a doublecutaway chambered electric for John G’. The design is based on the DC in the gallery, which was my 3rd scratch built guitar, and was in turn based on the Gibson LP Doublecut. It’s a popular body shape - and has been adopted & adapted by a number of high end builders such as Ron Thorn and Paul Reed Smith (PRS).

Here’s my take on it:

24 fret DC

John’s will feature RW/maple/RW double binding, a 24 fret Santos RW neck, and a Hipshot 2 point tremolo. At the same time, I’ll experiment with building two guitars at once - to see how much setup time I save for each operation. The sister guitar will be the same body style, but with minimal detailing, 22 frets, and a string through tune-a-matic bridge.

Progress will be slow for a while, since parts still need to arrive, but the first step has been taken - the mahogany bodies have been jointed and glued up, and a maple top bookmatched and joined. The maple may end up in John’s guitar, depending on which top he chooses from a few on offer.

Left to right: John’s beautifully ribbon-striped body blank, the maple top, and the less figured body for the 22 fret guitar.

mahogany, maple, mahogany

More updates as it progresses…

19 Responses to “John’s doublecut…”

  1. Tim sailplane Says:

    This one ‘ere is the nicest doublecut. I still kinda want one.

  2. Ant Says:

    Of course, being a daisy rock it’ll be made of depleted uranium, and weigh more than a volvo :)

  3. Kent Trammell Says:

    Hey man I noticed this is a twenty-four fret finger board. How did you compensate for the extra length? Did you just make the neck longer or move the saddle, bridge, and pickups back on the body?

  4. Ant Says:

    The neck is longer than the 22 fret version, and joins the body at the 22nd fret. This results in the bridge being slightly further up the body. but not by much - the 22 fret design joins at the 21st fret.

    The scale length is the same, so the distance from the nut to the bridge doesn’t change, just the amount of of space between the end of the fretboard and the bridge.

    edit: this drawing shows the difference:


  5. Donnie Says:

    Want a good reason to laugh at me? I downloaded the pic in your blog of the 24 fret DC. I spent about an hour photoshoping it and pics of Hamer Sunbursts and LPDC’s. I did this because, right off the bat, things looked out of place to me, so I wanted to find out why. Also, to check the scale of your drawing. So, here I am returning to post a comment on my findings and commend you for what looks like an awesome guitar to play. The first thing I see when I click the link for comments? “A picture showing the differences in an eerie likeness to what I have on Photoshop at this very moment.”

    I have been a huge fan of Hamer Sunburst Customs and DC Customs for a long time. While I have owned the Hamers, I have only played borrowed DCs or ones in the music store. I also spent a number of years collecting and playing super strats of various heritages. This guitar resembles the best of both worlds for me - tone and playability of the double cut tanks, and the all access privilege of a 24 fret neck (the only reason I played the super strats in the first place.) For years I’ve wanted that combination only to be stuck with a tremolo - they are fun to play, but you have to own 10 of them for the different keys and tunings not to be monotonous.

    You don’t mind me borrowing your idea to build my own, do you? It would look so good - all black with open coils and no inlays. I would change the headstock of course.

  6. Ant Says:

    “You don’t mind me borrowing your idea to build my own, do you?”

    Go nuts Donnie - my design isn’t exactly original, given how heavily it borrows from the LPDC and other subsequent designs inspired by the DC.

    Be sure and post a link to your build when you’re done - I’d love to see how it turns out.

  7. Robyn Brown Says:

    Hi Ant, i Have recently completed a neck thru double cut, it was my first build and is pretty shit but only really cst me about 100 punds to complete.
    what i was wanting to ask was. how do you route you pickup cavites? my bearing on my bit it at the top, so if i was to route 1/4″ of wood each pass, it would be free hand for 4 passes until i get deep enough for my bearing to touch the template. by then i promise you it would be an axewound.

    whats the secret?!

    by the way you are a master!

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